Silver Sebright Bantam $4.75
Sebrights are a true breed of bantam chickens, meaning there are no large versions of this breed. There are 2 colors recognized in the APA the Golden and the Silver. We only carry the Silver at Egg Well Farm. Truly a delightful breed of chicken.
This small breed of bantam originated in Britain. Sir John Sebright developed the breed of true bantams named for him. Because of the unique traits his breed displays, molecular biologists are studying the Sebrights to better understand the genome of chickens and how traits are passed on. The adult Sebrights are fairly hardy, and active birds that fly well. Hens are not broody and lay a limited number of tiny white eggs. The Sebrights were admitted to the APA in 1874.
Chick Care Guide for Bantams
BANTAMS: Keep Bantam chicks in a separated area until they are strong enough to hang with standard size chicks. They need an area where they have free accessibility to food and water. They cannot compete with the larger breeds for food and water. They need an area snuggly and warm with no drafts. They do not have the ability to regulate their body temperatures and drafts could be a death sentence.
- box – can be as simple as cardboard box petitions or wooden box.
- shaving – should be larger shaving. They will eat the smaller ones and it will kill them. Put an inch of large pine shavings in the floor of the brooder box. Don’t get it too deep. Do Not use cedar shavings.
- Starter Grower feed - start by pouring a small amount on the floor on paper towel.
- lamp - (preferably the infrared red heat lamps. White lights cause pecking)
- - placed on something to hold it up about an inch high to prevent drowning.
- - after the chicks have been eating from paper towel for about a week fill feeders with starter grower feed.
Day 1: Acclimating Chicks
- Warm the brooder to 90 degrees before adding chicks. Keep drafts away from chicks. Since they have not grown out their feathers yet, they catch colds easily. Without feathers, they are basically naked.
- Temperature: 90 degrees bring temperature up or down according to behavior. If your chicks are huddling together in clumps, they are cold, if they are plastered all around the walls trying to get away from the heat they are too hot. Drop the temperature down 5 degrees each week until reaching 70 degrees.Caution! Please don’t let your birds get any hotter than 90 degrees. Heat exhaustion will kill and is identified by gasping, and water will go out their mouths and butts. If the outdoors is 90 degrees you may not have to use a heat source at all.
- Water: First thing to do when baby chicks arrive is to take one at a time and dip their beaks in the water and be certain they drink; this step is essential to survival. If you can set the waterer above the shaving on a one inch high platform, it will help prevent them from filling with shaving and hopefully prevent them from drowning.
- It is a good practice to put a teaspoon of sugar in warm water when arriving in the mail, this rejuvenates them and allows them strength to eat and drink.
- Feed: Until chicks catch on, the best way to get them to eat is by scattering starter chick feed on a piece of paper towel. After about 2-3 days, add a feeder.
- Location: Keep feed and water on outskirts of heat lamp, ideally on opposite sides (with heat lamp in the middle) to keep water from feed.
- Sleep: Expect the chicks to sleep quite a lot during this first week.